Mexico’s Arab Heritage: How the Flavors of Lebanon Ended up in Mexico
By Dejaih Smith
When you think of Spanish food, what do you think of first? Olive oil, fish and garlic, right? When the Spanish arrived in Mexico in the early 1500s, they brought with them techniques inspired by the North African Muslims, known as the Moors. Mexico’s Arab heritage can be traced back to the Moorish people who invaded Spain in the 700s and reigned over them for almost 800 years. The Moors left a deep impression on the Iberian Peninsula, introducing many scientific, mathematical and philosophical concepts we use today. Their influence on the Spanish language shines forth with approximately 4,000 words tying back to Arabic origin, making up roughly 8% of the language. Arabic influence stuck with the Spanish conquerors as they spread these ideas across the Atlantic.
The Moors had a different cooking technique, different ways of eating and, used spices among other tactics taken out of diets based in the Catholicized peninsula. They would travel far and wide for items like: cilantro, cumin, and clove. These spices were not found directly in the Middle East, but in Afghanistan, northern India, and Pakistan - all of which were dominated by the Arabs. During the Moors’ excursions, they were always searching for the most exclusive and expensive things to try, spices being a favored commodity to purchase. Things such as cumin, black peppercorns, and cinnamon were not native to Mexican lands and they can thank the Moors for these spices now.
What colonialism brought to Mexico can also be seen in their 17th century recipes. Certain communities throughout the country didn’t take to overly pungent flavors, like garlic or cumin. This was not to show rejection to the culture, but being exposed to such strong flavors was overwhelming for some. The reach of the Middle East is wider than you may think. Unexpectedly, the ties from the Middle East all the way to Latin America were strongly weaved with many cooking techniques and spices still being used in dishes today. From the vertical, rotating spilt of meat called a trompo in Mexico to ajo, or “garlic,” being the backbone flavor of many national dishes throughout the Latin American region.
Hopefully you were inspired to try something new, whether it’s tacos arabes to compare to shawarma or incorporating cumin in your Spanish rice. Now you can see an aspect of how cultures are intertwined in ways you may not have known before. From infancy, your palate was molded by you family’s cultural heritage, which includes preferences and even aversions. Even with the availability of ingredients and techniques of food preparation, food is undoubtedly a fundamental part of our identity. Share your cultural plate with others and see where it takes you.
Arab-Style Taco Restaurants to Try Around the World:
Los Originales Tacos Arabes de Puebla [3600 E. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, USA] Their specialty is tacos Arabes, which originated when Lebanese migration increased in Puebla, Mexico, in the 1920s.
Tacos Árabes Bagdad [Av. 2 Pte. 311, Centro, 72000 Puebla, Mexico, and among other locations]: Originally opened when the Galeana's grandparents immigrated to Puebla in 1928, this restaurant takes pride in serving tacos arabes with traditional Lebanese lamb cooking methods to pork.
Café Jekemir [Isabel la Catolica 72, near Mesones, Centro, Mexico] Offering some of the best and affordable Veracruzano coffee beans, this Lebanese family is still overseen by the Guraieb sisters and their father Fred, son of the founder. You won’t regret trying a cup of coffee coupled with a variety of Lebanese pastries.
Adonis [Hegel 205, Polanco, Branch in Tecamachalco, Av. de Las Fuentes no. 49-B, Mexico City, Mexico] Expect generous portions of a typical Lebanese spread including exceptional hummus, tabule “tacos Arabes,” and kibbe. There is also a shop nearby featuring various breads, olives, and Middle Eastern pastries to remind you of the richness of the region.
